Swimming with Marine Life: Iguanas, Nurse Sharks, and Pigs

Just north of Staniel Cay lies Bitter Guana Cay, a rugged island of eroded limestone and scrub vegetation. This cay is one of the last strongholds for the endangered Northern Bahamian Rock Iguana (Cyclura cychlura figginsi). These reptiles look like small dragons sunning themselves on the pale sand. They are territorial creatures that can grow up to three feet in length, with scaly skin ranging from dark grey to dull orange. As your boat approaches teh beach, you will often see them march down to the water line to inspect who has arrived.

Alongside these rock iguanas, you will spot northern curly-tailed lizards scurrying across the dry scrub and rocky ledges. They hold their tails coiled tight over their backs as they hunt for insects. These smaller lizards are bold, but they give the larger rock iguanas a wide berth. Visitors often bring grapes on sticks to offer the iguanas, which keeps human fingers safe from accidental nips while keeping the lizards on their natural beach terrain.

“Keep your grapes on the end of a long stick and stay low to the sand. These iguanas have sharp teeth, and they cannot always tell a thumb from a piece of fruit.”

— Captain Elias Thorne

A short run north brings you to Compass Cay Marina, home to a famous resident population of nurse sharks (Ginglymostoma cirratum). These bottom-dwelling sharks hang around the submerged wooden docks, resting in the shallow tidal waters. Guests can step down onto the submerged platform or slip directly into the water to swim alongside them. Their skin feels like rough sandpaper, and their slow movements make them a favorite stop for travelers exploring the central cays.

One of the most common questions landlubbers ask me on the dock is, do the sharks eat the pigs on pig beach bahamas? I always chuckle at that one. The short answer is no. First off, Big Major Cay and Compass Cay are separate islands miles apart. Second, nurse sharks are docile bottom-feeders that use suction to eat small fish, crabs, and crustaceans. They have tiny mouths and no interest in a full-grown pig swimming in the surf. The pig beach bahamas sharks narrative is pure myth spun by folks who have never spent real time on these waters.

When you swim with the nurse sharks, keep your hands flat against your chest or down by your sides. Do not attempt to grab their dorsal fins or lift them out of the water. The dockmasters at Compass Cay maintain clear safety boundaries to protect both the visitors and the marine life, so pay attention to their instructions before stepping into the marina slips.

Green sea turtles are a frequent sight in the clear shallows throughout the Exuma chain. Places like Stocking Island near Georgetown and the calm bays around Little Farmer’s Cay have healthy seagrass beds where these reptiles feed. They surface every few minutes for air, breaking the glassy water with a sharp exhale before diving back down. Snorkelers who approach slowly without splashing can drift quietly beside them for several minutes at a time.

Many travelers choose a organized pig beach turtles snorkeling daily tour that combines stops at Big Major Cay, the turtle feeding grounds, and the iguana beaches into a single excursion. You can read our guide on how to get to Pig Beach to see how these boat trips depart from Nassau, Georgetown, or Staniel Cay using high-speed center-console powerboats.

Above the water line, the limestone cliffs and mangrove creeks host a wide array of bird life. Western spindalis, osprey, and green herons nest along the rocky coastlines. Look up near the high cliffs and you might spot white-tailed tropicbirds with their long streamer feathers trailing behind them as they hunt for small fish in the open sea. Sloop always squawks when an osprey hits the water nearby, a spot that me and Sloop keep an eye on whenever we drop anchor.